Picos de Europa: August/September 2014.

The mountains in the north of Spain are not particularly high, but appeared very attractive, forming a compact area with plenty of campsites and walking. There was no need to join a guided tour, as the walking is mostly on well-defined routes. Having learnt some Spanish, and borrowed a very good guide book from the library, we reckoned we could find our own way.

Saturday 23 Aug/Sunday 24 Aug:

The main drawback to this destination was the long ferry crossing from Poole to Santander. We used the smaller LD-lines company because it was cheaper, and more convenient than going from Portsmouth. We sailed on time at 4pm, and after dinner, retired to our cabin (a necessary luxury, and we appreciated the en-suite facilities). After a reasonable night's sleep, we spent a long day, mostly reading on the small sun-deck. As we were due to arrive in the evening, we planned to head straight to the nearest campsite to the ferry-port, at Cabo Mayor. We arrived in Santander at 6pm (actually an hour early!) but then we had trouble navigating our way across the city; when we reached the campsite, we found others from the ferry had the same problem. The campsite was too big, crowded and expensive for our liking, but was OK for one night.

Monday 25 Aug:

We took the motorway to get away from the city asap, westwards along the coast to the Picos de Europa turn-off (only about 60k). The exit numbers seemed strangely random at first, until we realised they were the distance from the start of the motorway.
We turned south towards the mountains, where the road system was simple - one road all the way around, with cul-de-sacs leading up to the mountain villages. Our guide book decribed a clockwise direction, and it was easier to follow that way.		Continuing south towards Potes (the main tourist town on the south-eastern side), the road was narrow and steep. It followed the Rio Deva, winding through the dramatic gorge of the 'Desfiladero de la Hermida'. As an introduction to the potential driving hazards, we wondered what worse was to come, if this was a main road.

View up the valley, from the campsite.

When we got to Potes, we found it was market day, and the place was absolutely packed. No hope of finding anywhere to park (except outside town, where an enterprising farmer was charging people to use his field). We turned off, still following the Deva, up the road towards Fuente De, where we planned to do our first walk. Looking for a campsite, La Isla was the first one, and it's pool looked so inviting in the hot sun, that we didn't look any further. We ate by the riverside, at the campsite cafe, sampling the local food and 'sidra'.

Tuesday 26 Aug:

	We got up early to beat the queues we had been told to expect at the Fuente De cable car. Disappointingly, the clouds had come down overnight, and the mountain tops had disappeared. We drove up to the bottom station anyway, and no queues - the weather had obviously put people off. But looking at the webcam of the top, it seemed the visibility was improving, so we bought our tickets (10€ each), and went up in the scarily small cabin with a dozen other intrepid hikers. The walk started on a wide track, with tantalising glimpses of the mountains through the clouds.
	As the clouds started to lift, more and more peaks appeared.
We walked on past the Chalet Real		Then down to the Refugio de Aliva, where we stopped for a welcome coffee break.

One of the most noticeable features was the abundance of different types of alpine flowers in bloom.

We continued down, following the waymarked track. Then we found an alternative route signed, which seemed to be a short cut, instead of making a dog-leg down to the road. But the trail was narrow and hilly, taking just as long. And the showers started, making it even more difficult. We covered about 8 miles, in 5 hours - much slower than suggested in the guidebook. It was late afternoon by the time we got back to the campsite, for a very late lunch/early dinner.

Wednesday 27 Aug:

We drove back down early into Potes for shopping - no problem parking today. Then up the Deva valley again to Cosgaya, for another (shorter, much easier) walk from our guidebook. After breakfast at the start of the walk, we took a shady path up one side of the Rio Bejo, then across and back down the gravel path on the other side.		Rio Deva at Potes, with the old bridge.	Potes tower.
Panoramic mountain views: looking north towards the Picos.	Rock formations towering over the river 'the sphinx'.	Not much wild life. The butterflies rarely stayed still.	Walking down under the high rock walls.

Nowhere shady for lunch, so we jumped in the van to drive straight on to our next campsite.

Down to Potes yet again, then continuing south and west, the 'main road' became even steeper, winding upwards (mostly in 2nd gear), to the pass at Puerto de San Gloria (1600m). We stopped briefly at the Mirador del Corzo to view yet another panorama of mountains.

At Portilla de la Reina we turned north towards the central mountain area, on an even narrower road, to the Valdeon valley. 'El Cares' campsite was marked at Santa Marina, but it was yet another 1k up a side-track. A lovely quiet walking-orientated site. We dined at the campsite bar, and then the owner came out with his maps and explained the walking options around the area - in both Spanish and English! El Cares camp site Sunset over the mountains

Thursday 28 Aug:

Home-baked bread and croissants from camp-site restaurant for breakfast. We drove on up Valdeon valley to Cain village, for start of next walk - more steep narrow raods - 1st gear needed!
	We began by the Cares dam, with it's salmon ladder to accommodate the fish.	Our route then went down the river Cares gorge, following the canal built for the hydro-electric system.

We retraced our steps after about 2 miles, having crossed 3 vertigo-inducing bridges, and passed through several tunnels.

On our way back to the camp site, we were intrigued by this reconstruction of an original wolf trap.

Friday 29 Aug:

Cangis bridge over Rio Sella	A long drive from Santa Marina, continuing across the mountains to the western side of the Picos area. Turning north, we went up another gorge, the Desfiladero de los Reyos, to Cangis de Onis, on the north-western corner. A larger touristy town, useful for shopping and cash top-up at the bank. It's on the route of the Compostela de Santiago, which passes between the mountains and the coast.	Many old granary stores around, on stilts to deter rodents.	Statue of 1st king of Spain - reputedly
Now we headed east, our target being the Covadonga campsite, as the base for our next walk. But it was not actually up the road to Covadonga. We had to return to the main road, and it was only a few hundred metres further on - just a small 'transit'-type of roadside site, but adequate for a night. We walked back a short way to a 'posh' restaurant to treat ourselves to some Asturian-style food for dinner. Amazed to be kept awake by wolves howling in the night - a nearby zoo!

Saturday 30 Aug:

Covadonga monastery

A short drive up the road to Covadonga for a walk round the high lakes. We started early to beat the traffic, but the road past Covadonga was closed and everyone had to get on the shuttle bus to the top (at 8€ each). When we saw the road was basically single-track, we realised why there were traffic problems - there were only a couple of designated places for the buses to pass each other.

View from the bus - the road continues down on the right.

The first section of the lakes walk is very commercialised, with the bus-stops, car parks and paved footpaths (though we did appreciate the 'servicios'). There was even a small visitor centre, surprisingly well laid-out - a walk-through explaining local scenery.

Visitor centre 'limestone' cave and the local wildlife.

Someone must have complained to the management about the weather.

A quick snap of Lago Enol from the bus (before the clouds came down again)	There were plenty more alpine flowers for us to practice our close-ups on.	Don't eat this (poisonous monkshood).

Mine entrance in the dip.

The path went through the old mine at Buferrera - it was mostly hidden from view, though a small section of rail track and tunnel were preserved (but not photogenic). Mine tunnel workings in the rockface were still open - and accessible.

A resident watching over the mine.

We left the paved paths, following the route described in our guidebook: along the side of Lago de Ercina, across the limestone pavements and round to Lago Enol. To avoid the road, it recommended going to the east of Lago Enol - OK except where the path disappeared, and we had to jump across the rocks at the waters edge!	An isolated cottage, it's owner seemed pleased to see us. Following the white-and-yellow waymarks on the vague track across the 'pavement'.	End of Lago de Ercina - no route markings, but we assumed it came this way Give way to the locals.
Returning to the main road, we turned westwards through Cangis again, and on out of the Picos area, to find Incos village, for the start of the race I planned to do on Monday. It was too small to be on our map, but stopping at Torazo - another small village but at least it had a bar - we asked directions (in Spanish!). It was only a short way further on, and a field with a very large marquee appeared to be our destination. We drove on via Villaviciosa to look for the nearest campsite. The only options were big crowded places on the coast, but 'Costa Verde', at Playa de la Griega, had some more secluded pitches at the back. The main drawback here was the strong onshore wind, funnelling through in the afternoons. A cafe on the beach provided gourmet hamburgers for our dinner.		Incos village plus marquee.

Sunday 31 Aug:

They call this their Jurassic coast, with it's main claim to fame being the giant-size dinosaur footprints on the shore (nowhere near as good as our ammonites).

We walked the coastpath eastwards from the campsite to the dinosaur viewpoint, then continued to the next village, La Isla. Nice beach, but nothing much else there except one small cafe, where we had coffee, so we turned round and walked back again (10k in total). It was hot enough for a dip in the sea when we got back, but the Atlantic waves were to big for swimming - crowds of people body-surfing though.

Monday 1 Sept:

A short drive up the coast for a closer look at Lastres. A nice little harbour, but not much else. Then we turned south to Colunga, and on to narrow mountain roads (again) following the direct route via Liberon to Incos. The road signs were not very helpful, but by some fluke of navigation we came straight out by the huge marquee again. We parked in the field for the afternoon, watching them setting up for the 'Saints day' festival and the evening race. Link to race write-up and photos Picu Incos Not wanting to cross the mountains in the dark, we stuck to the main roads for the drive back to the campsite.

Tuesday 2 Sept:

A leisurely day. Shopping in Colunga, then a drive east along the coast, until we turned towards the mountains again.			The restaurant had 'sidra dispensers', imitating the local custom of pouring into the glass from a great height!
	By lunchtime, we arrived at our next campsite: near to Arenas de Cabrales, 'Naranja de Bulnes' was small and quiet, between the road and the Rio Cares (the same river we walked along last Thursday).	Rio Cares beside the campsite.

Wednesday 3 Sept:

A short drive up the Rio Cares to Puente Poncebos for the start of our walk. Parking on the road above the gorge, we dropped down to the bridge across the Cares, and then set of up its tributary, Rio Tejo, all the way up to Bulnes. We caught up with some other UK walkers from campsite.

Cares bridge from below.

Across the Tejo.

The track was vertiginous in places, clinging to the side of the mountain. Eventually we faced a short steep climb out of the gorge (our track is just visible, way below in the valley)			Bulnes was very small, being mainly a group of bars and hotels. We had a coffee-break there (with our new UK friends). We looked, but couldn't determine which mountain was the famous 'Naranjo de Bulnes' - Picu Urrielu, the highest peak in the Picos.
Another area full of alpine flowers. We returned to the campsite after a picnic lunch by the river. Looking around Arenas, we found a map of local walks in the small tourist office (where the assistant didn't speak any English!)

Thursday 4 Sept:

Walked into Arenas for shopping - got some of their famous Cabrales blue cheese - much too strong for me. We decided to try one of the local walks - a 4-mile circuit to an 18th-century 'ancient village'. But it was just a long slog up a track, through the trees to a few old buildings, then circling back across fields (with yet more flowers). A lazy afternoon, then drinks with our new friends in their posh caravan. We walked into town with them for dinner - a very good 3-course 'menu-del-dia' for 12€ each

Friday 5 Sept:

We drove back up to Puente Poncebos, to have another look for the elusive highest peak.
	Even though I climbed up to the Mirador above Poncebos, it was still too cloudy. The panorama shown on the plaque at the mirador should be visible through the gap between the mountains.
We drove on further up into the mountains, to Sotres (on yet another steep narrow road). The cloud lifted a little, but still not sure which mountains we were looking at. There were several walking routes from here, but not enough time to explore them. We wanted to spend time in the coastal area on the way back to Santander, and needed to find our next campsite.	Mountain view from Sotres.	Back to Arenas, then eastwards to Panes, completing our cicuit of the Picos. Heading north to the coast, we looked at San Vicente; nice but too many tourists and the camp site was crowded. A few miles further on, we came to Playa de Oyambre, with a very small campsite 5 minutes walk from the beach. We booked in and I went for a swim in the sea (more sheltered from the waves here). There was no village, but a beach restaurant where we had dinner. I tried a local fish 'jorge' (very pricy).

Saturday 6 Sept:

We drove along the coast to Comillas. A small, pleasant town, with spacious squares. Using a map from the tourist office, we walked round a marked circuit of 'places of interest'
We started in the main plaza. The design of the 'Fuente Farola' ('lamp-post fountain') symbolises the claim that Comillas was the first town in Spain with electric lighting.	A short walk to the Sobrellano Palace, with its ornate stonework and modern art in the grounds.	Looking from the palace to the university	Just around the corner, a typically over-elaborate house design by Gaudi.
Marques de Comillas	Comillas harbour	Santa Lucia chapel
	Crossing to the seaward side of town, the clifftop on the western side is dominated by the statue of Marques de Comillas, looking out to sea. On the opposite side of the harbour is the seamen's chapel of Santa Lucia.
We drove on towards Santillana del Mar, but took a diversion inland through small villages, looking for a cafe or bar. The roads became narrower and narrower, with few signposts, and we ended up thoroughly disorientated, at a farm entrance. The owner came out to help us (in Spanish), and as we couldn't follow his complicated directions, his wife kindly got out their car for us to follow back to the main road! Santillana del Mar is actually several miles from the sea, and we found its campsite just off the road before we reached the town. The restaurant there provided an excellent value 3-course 'menu touristico' for 9€ each.		Relaxing at the campsite at Santillana, after swimming 40 lengths of their 25m pool.

Sunday 7 Sept:

Our ferry didn't leave from Santander until late evening, so we had all day for sightseeing. We drove to Santillana, but the central cobbled old-town is closed to traffic, and we had to pay 2€ at the carpark.
We arrived early, and had the picturesque stone buildings and arches around the cobbled streets almost to ourselves.	Santillana town hall.	Not sure of the symbolism of this stone bull outside the town hall, but he doesn't look very happy.	More stone sculptures in a small park
The open-air washing pool	The imposing facade of Santa Juliana college and cloisters. The ringing of the bells in the tower was deafening (and not very tuneful)		and other bells joined in enthusiastically.
Picnic by the river with some very nice Rioja	We wandered around the town for a couple of hours, then continued towards Santander. We had plenty of time, so took the minor road to Suances on the coast (very busy resort), then back onto the main road (avoiding the motorway). Finding some picnic tables by the Rio Pas at Oruña, we stopped for lunch (and watched the runners and organisers clearing up after their local half-marathon race which started here; they must have started early to avoid the heat). Heading on to Santander, we found ourselves directly outside the Carrefour hypermarket, so easily completed our shopping. We were almost at the ferryport, and didn't fancy walking around the city on a Sunday, so we spent the rest of the day lazing on the quayside. The ferry left at 10:30pm, and though there weren't any cabins available when we booked, we managed to get an upgrade, which made the 26-hour return crossing to Poole more tolerable. We finally arrived home after midnight, early on Tuesday morning.