France: September 2012

New Forest Runners 'expedition' group were going to take part in the Medoc Marathon again this year, so we decided to amble down through France to support them for the weekend, and then amble back again.

The overnight ferry from Portsmouth to Le Havre seemed the best option on timing and price, though the lounge floor was only marginally more comfortable than the recliners, and we got very little sleep.

Day 1: Tuesday
We planned to drive to the Loire for our first campsite. Tiredness-induced navigation errors before even getting out of Le Havre made this seem a long way off.

After a picnic lunch near Baugé (for our favourite cheese-and-wine return to French lifestyle) we found the Croix Rouge riverside campsite, 8k from Saumur (our other option). Only €10, and a short walk along the river to the restaurant "Le Bato Chez Coco". It looked like a 'friterie' but we had the excellent 5-course menu for €15.50.

A very early night to catch up on missed sleep.

Croix Rouge
Not ideal access to facilities
if you're in a hurry.

(44 miles to Portsmouth).
Distance today: 212 miles.
Total distance: 256 miles

Day 2: Wednesday
Slept till 9:15 - but there was the hour-change to consider.
Rather than stop again en-route we went straight on to the Dordogne. After Poitiers, took M-way round Angoulême, but missed our exit (too many lorries in the way) - needed quick rethink to get back on course.

Bikes haven't yet touched the ground in France! We looked at Limeuil but too touristy, and campsites not by river, so went on to Tremolat (very narrow hilly 'white' road). Nice shady campsite at Centre Nautique alongside the river. €16.50, but included electric - though had to borrow adaptor to connect our cable.
Also onsite pool (tried it, but a bit chilly) and cafe/bar "La Pyramide" for dinner. Alec had very good value €8 'teenager menu' but my smoked salmon salad was mostly lettuce.

Distance today: 231 miles.
Total distance: 487 miles.

Day 3: Thursday
Sunny and hot (30ºC+). That's more like the south of France.
Drove west along the Dordogne valley, first to Bergerac for shoppping, including cable connector.

Campsite at Ste.Foy looked good in book, but too small and very crowded (with Brits).
Went on to "Riviere Fleurie" at St.Antoine. Large shady pitch, and warm pool, but bit pricy (€21 excl elec). Also, set back from river, so no views.

Took a short walk along the river, then spent the afternoon in the pool.
No nearby eaterie, so had to self-cater!!

Distance today: 45 miles.
Total distance: 532 miles.

Day 4: Friday
Still sunny and hot. Time to head for the Medoc.
3-hour drive via the (very busy) Bordeaux ring-road and up to Hourtin.

Met up with other NFR campers at Les Ourmes, the regular campsite (not cheap - €18 + €4 elec per night.)

After lunch, unloaded the bikes (at last) and cycled round the lake (11K, part road/part cycle track) to join the others on the beach at Hourtin Plage. Quick swim in the waves for me, then ice-cream before cycling back. I managed to fall off my bike going too slow up kerb behind Alec (bruised hip and grazes). Then we missed a turning, and had to ride extra couple of k.

Group barbecue at the campsite
in the evening
(but pasta for those doing the marathon tomorrow).

Distance today: 81 miles.
Total distance: 613 miles.

Day 5: Saturday, Medoc Marathon
Still sunny and even hotter.
Runners off to Pauillac at 7:30am for 9:30am start of Marathon.
Temperatures quickly rose to 35ºC+ - much too hot for running.
At a more civilised hour, we joined Karen and Nick to drive with bikes to mid-point of marathon route.

Then we cycled around cheering everyone on.
Our Union-Jack-toga group helped Mike push his chariot the whole way.
Another wine-tasting chateau-stop.

The day ended with a celebratory dinner for everyone at the pizza restaurant in Hourtin-Port. Couldn't finish my enormous portion of tagliatelle.

Day 6: Sunday
Drove with group to Carcans-Plage for laze on beach. Another sea-swim for me (must be a record). Then we retired to the cafe for beer.

Another barbecue at the campsite
in the evening.

Hundreds of locals had the same idea - we left early and
found a short traffic jam - others got stuck 2/3 hours.

Total distance: 677 miles.

Day 7: Monday
Showers am!!! Brightened up later.
Left Hourtin via the Bordeaux ring-road again,then north on the main road to Fontenay-le-Compte, via Saintes and Niort. More navigation problems with un-numbered M-way exits, and too many roundabouts on ring-roads (but not on map).

Le Bar and campsite at dusk. Stopped at campsite in forest near Mervent, but dead-looking, so went on to Pouzauges, 'Camping le Lac'. Didn't expect to be greeted in English by owner with strong Cheshire accent. Small lake-side site (€15 + €4 elec). Short walk round lake into town.

Dinner on-site at 'Le Bar' - chilli-con-carne+frites - €13 for two!

Distance today: 215 miles.
Total distance: 892 miles.

Day 8: Tuesday
Misty,drizzle. Brighter later.
Took very good minor road to Cholet, then main road (non-péage M-way round Angers) up to La Flêche.

Bridge into town.
Camping Municipal de la 'Route d'Or (€9.75 + €3.70 elec).
Pitch on riverside, looking across to the town.
Afternoon walk around town - compact centre; looked at restaurants - only cafe-type or posh.
So we went 'posh' at La Bisquine, as they were advertising mussels for Alec. But there were none until tomorrow, so he had to have black-pudding instead.
And the pichet of local cidre brut was good.
View from town of campsite
(and our van, if you look carefully).

Distance today: 88 miles.
Total distance: 980 miles.

Day 9: Wednesday
Sun/cloud, light showers.
Market day in La Flêche, so went early for look around (mostly food and clothes).
Took croissants back to camp for breakfast.

Retraced outward route as far as Gacé, then on minor road to Lisieux up Touques valley. Up main road by-pass, then found campsite near Blangy-le-Chateau.

Pitch near the chateau. 'Castel Camping du Brevedent'
Posh 4* site in grounds of chateau! (but low-season, only €18).
Started walk on vague track thru woods - getting late, so had to climb out thru barbed wire to road to get back.
Restaurant, bar and shop on-site, but we self-catered.
Down by the river.

Distance today: 138 miles.
Total distance: 1118 miles.

Day 10: Thursday
Chilly at first, sunny.
Heavy rain in night soaked chairs under van - no breakfast outside.
Short journey today, so easy drive through lots of traditional Normandy villages.

Stopped at Montfort by river Seine to climb 220 steps to ruins of medieval castle (with non-medieval goat).

Got to Le Havre early, to shop for wine etc, but surprise - no big supermarkets in town! Small Leclerc near ferryport was only option. On boarding 5pm ferry, sent up very steep ramp with cars to open top deck. Van and bikes got covered in salt spray, and nearly last off at Portsmouth.

Distance today: 64 miles to Le Havre. 43 miles Portsmouth-home.
Total distance: 1225 miles.

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Day 1: Tuesday We planned to drive to the Loire for our first campsite. Tiredness-induced navigation errors before even getting out of Le Havre made this seem a long way off. After a picnic lunch near Baugé (for our favourite cheese-and-wine return to French lifestyle) we found the Croix Rouge riverside campsite, 8k from Saumur (our other option). Only €10, and a short walk along the river to the restaurant "Le Bato Chez Coco". It looked like a 'friterie' but we had the excellent 5-course menu for €15.50. A very early night to catch up on missed sleep.	Croix Rouge Not ideal access to facilities if you're in a hurry.
(44 miles to Portsmouth). Distance today: 212 miles. Total distance: 256 miles


Day 2: Wednesday Slept till 9:15 - but there was the hour-change to consider. Rather than stop again en-route we went straight on to the Dordogne. After Poitiers, took M-way round Angoulême, but missed our exit (too many lorries in the way) - needed quick rethink to get back on course.
Bikes haven't yet touched the ground in France!	We looked at Limeuil but too touristy, and campsites not by river, so went on to Tremolat (very narrow hilly 'white' road). Nice shady campsite at Centre Nautique alongside the river. €16.50, but included electric - though had to borrow adaptor to connect our cable. Also onsite pool (tried it, but a bit chilly) and cafe/bar "La Pyramide" for dinner. Alec had very good value €8 'teenager menu' but my smoked salmon salad was mostly lettuce.
Distance today: 231 miles. Total distance: 487 miles.


Day 3: Thursday Sunny and hot (30ºC+). That's more like the south of France. Drove west along the Dordogne valley, first to Bergerac for shoppping, including cable connector. Campsite at Ste.Foy looked good in book, but too small and very crowded (with Brits). Went on to "Riviere Fleurie" at St.Antoine. Large shady pitch, and warm pool, but bit pricy (€21 excl elec). Also, set back from river, so no views. Took a short walk along the river, then spent the afternoon in the pool. No nearby eaterie, so had to self-cater!!
Distance today: 45 miles. Total distance: 532 miles.


Day 4: Friday Still sunny and hot. Time to head for the Medoc. 3-hour drive via the (very busy) Bordeaux ring-road and up to Hourtin. Met up with other NFR campers at Les Ourmes, the regular campsite (not cheap - €18 + €4 elec per night.) After lunch, unloaded the bikes (at last) and cycled round the lake (11K, part road/part cycle track) to join the others on the beach at Hourtin Plage. Quick swim in the waves for me, then ice-cream before cycling back. I managed to fall off my bike going too slow up kerb behind Alec (bruised hip and grazes). Then we missed a turning, and had to ride extra couple of k.		Group barbecue at the campsite in the evening (but pasta for those doing the marathon tomorrow).
Distance today: 81 miles. Total distance: 613 miles.


Day 6: Sunday Drove with group to Carcans-Plage for laze on beach. Another sea-swim for me (must be a record). Then we retired to the cafe for beer.		Another barbecue at the campsite in the evening.
Hundreds of locals had the same idea - we left early and found a short traffic jam - others got stuck 2/3 hours.

Total distance: 677 miles.

Day 7: Monday Showers am!!! Brightened up later. Left Hourtin via the Bordeaux ring-road again,then north on the main road to Fontenay-le-Compte, via Saintes and Niort. More navigation problems with un-numbered M-way exits, and too many roundabouts on ring-roads (but not on map).
Le Bar and campsite at dusk.	Stopped at campsite in forest near Mervent, but dead-looking, so went on to Pouzauges, 'Camping le Lac'. Didn't expect to be greeted in English by owner with strong Cheshire accent. Small lake-side site (€15 + €4 elec). Short walk round lake into town. Dinner on-site at 'Le Bar' - chilli-con-carne+frites - €13 for two!
Distance today: 215 miles. Total distance: 892 miles.

Day 8: Tuesday Misty,drizzle. Brighter later. Took very good minor road to Cholet, then main road (non-péage M-way round Angers) up to La Flêche.
Bridge into town.	Camping Municipal de la 'Route d'Or (€9.75 + €3.70 elec). Pitch on riverside, looking across to the town. Afternoon walk around town - compact centre; looked at restaurants - only cafe-type or posh. So we went 'posh' at La Bisquine, as they were advertising mussels for Alec. But there were none until tomorrow, so he had to have black-pudding instead. And the pichet of local cidre brut was good.	View from town of campsite (and our van, if you look carefully).
Distance today: 88 miles. Total distance: 980 miles.

Day 9: Wednesday Sun/cloud, light showers. Market day in La Flêche, so went early for look around (mostly food and clothes). Took croissants back to camp for breakfast. Retraced outward route as far as Gacé, then on minor road to Lisieux up Touques valley. Up main road by-pass, then found campsite near Blangy-le-Chateau.
Pitch near the chateau.	'Castel Camping du Brevedent' Posh 4* site in grounds of chateau! (but low-season, only €18). Started walk on vague track thru woods - getting late, so had to climb out thru barbed wire to road to get back. Restaurant, bar and shop on-site, but we self-catered.	Down by the river.
Distance today: 138 miles. Total distance: 1118 miles.

Day 10: Thursday Chilly at first, sunny. Heavy rain in night soaked chairs under van - no breakfast outside. Short journey today, so easy drive through lots of traditional Normandy villages.
	Stopped at Montfort by river Seine to climb 220 steps to ruins of medieval castle (with non-medieval goat).
Got to Le Havre early, to shop for wine etc, but surprise - no big supermarkets in town! Small Leclerc near ferryport was only option. On boarding 5pm ferry, sent up very steep ramp with cars to open top deck. Van and bikes got covered in salt spray, and nearly last off at Portsmouth.
Distance today: 64 miles to Le Havre. 43 miles Portsmouth-home. Total distance: 1225 miles.